<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<rss version="2.0"
	xmlns:content="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/content/"
	xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"
	xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/"
	xmlns:atom="http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom"
	xmlns:sy="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/syndication/"
	xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/"
	>

<channel>
	<title>RMS - Residential Maintenance Services - Edmonton, Alberta, Canada</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.rmsab.com/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.rmsab.com</link>
	<description>Proactive Maintenance For Your Home</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2011 23:44:35 +0000</lastBuildDate>
	<language>en</language>
	<sy:updatePeriod>hourly</sy:updatePeriod>
	<sy:updateFrequency>1</sy:updateFrequency>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=3.0.1</generator>
		<item>
		<title>Good Growing Advice</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/good-growing-advice/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/good-growing-advice/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 08 Nov 2011 23:43:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rmsab.com/?p=209</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Controlling Mice In The Winter (PDf)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href='http://www.rmsab.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/SPN-Mice-in-Winter-1.pdf' title="Controlling Mice In The Winter">Controlling Mice In The Winter (PDf)</a></p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/good-growing-advice/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Electrical Cord Near-Miss</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/electrical-cord-near-miss/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/electrical-cord-near-miss/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 02 Aug 2011 15:33:56 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rmsab.com/?p=203</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This testimonial came from a Trican Client and has been re-formatted into this Bulletin. It has two very powerful learning’s, one about electrical safety, and the other about intervention. It’s very much worth the read. The statement below and the &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/electrical-cord-near-miss/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This testimonial came from a Trican Client and has been re-formatted into this Bulletin. It has two very powerful learning’s, one about electrical safety, and the other about intervention. It’s very much worth the read. The statement below and the pictures have not been altered from the original document.</p>
<p><a href='http://www.rmsab.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/10004ElectricalCords.pdf'>View pictures here (PDF).</a><br />
<span id="more-203"></span></p>
<blockquote><p>“I recently had a “reel” near miss with an outside electrical cord at my home. I had been using the cord while it was still rolled up on a storage spool. Many times in the past I have unrolled only enough cord to reach the appliance I need to power. I felt this was a good practice in order to prevent a tripping hazard, and keep everything looking tidy and neat. However, electrical cords are rated in large part by their insulation factor. They are designed to be used in environments without extreme ambient temperatures such as what we normally experience on a day to day basis. By not un-spooling the entire cord before each use, I had unknowingly altered the temperature the cord was exposed to tremendously.</p>
<p>“The temperature in the center of this cord bundle became hot enough to melt all of the insulation from portions of the wire. The first thing I looked for when I discovered this was a caution on the spool indicating the proper use of the device and there it was, molded right into the side of the spool “Caution: Unreel cord before use.”</p>
<p>“I am attaching pictures so you can see what I am talking about. Also, I am asking you to please send this to everyone in your distribution list so they will realize this is a very dangerous practice. So many people I have talked to about this do the exact same thing. As you can see in the last picture, the portions of the wire that were exposed (that I could see) were not damaged. It wasn’t until I was un-reeling the entire cord that I found this.</p>
<p>“Here is the real kicker: When I told my 21 year old son about this, he said “I knew you weren’t supposed to do that.” I immediately asked him why he had not told me this. His response was, “I thought you knew something I didn’t.”</p>
<p>“PLEASE, stop someone if you see them doing something you know is wrong or unsafe, even if they have much more “experience” then you. There are many ways you can respectfully explain to someone they are doing something unsafe, so use one of them and let’s watch out for each other.”</p></blockquote>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/electrical-cord-near-miss/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Safety Alerts</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/safety-alerts/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/safety-alerts/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 21:13:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rmsab.com/?p=161</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The following are recent safety alerts: PRODUCT MANUFACTURER PROBLEM CONTACT Household Products GE front loading washing machine Wire can break in the washing machine and make contact with the washtub while the machine is operating posing fire and shock hazards. &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/safety-alerts/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The following are recent safety alerts:<span id="more-161"></span></p>
<table class="post">
<tr>
<th>PRODUCT</th>
<th>MANUFACTURER</th>
<th>PROBLEM</th>
<th>CONTACT</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Household Products</td>
<td>GE front loading washing machine</td>
<td>Wire can break in the washing machine and make contact with the washtub while the machine is operating posing fire and shock hazards. Products under recall have model number starting with WBVH5</td>
<td>(888) 435-4124<br />
<a href="http://www.geappliances.com">www.geappliances.com</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>Hoover&reg; WindTunnel T-Series&trade; Bagless Upright Vacuum Cleaners with Cord Rewind Feature</td>
<td>The power cord is not properly routed or securely seated in the cord rewind assembly allowing the power cord to be pulled loose. This poses fire and shock hazards. Model numbers under recall UH70110 UH70120, UH70200, UH70205, UH70210</td>
<td>(888) 891-2054 <a href="http://www.hoover.com/productcategory.aspx?use=95&#038;ds=false">www.hoover.com/tseries</a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td></td>
<td>Maytag dishwasher</td>
<td>The recall includes Maytag&reg;, Amana&reg;, Jenn-Air&reg;, Admiral&reg;, Magic Chef&reg;, Performa by Maytag® and Crosley&reg; brand dishwashers with plastic tubs and certain serial numbers. The affected dishwashers were manufactured with black, bisque, white, silver and stainless steel front panels. The brand name is printed on the front of the dishwasher. The model and serial numbers are printed on a label located inside the plastic tub on a tag near the left side of the door opening. Serial numbers will start or end with one of the following sequences. NW39 &#8211; NW52, NY01 &#8211; NY19</td>
<td>(800) 544-5513 <a href="http://www.repair.maytag.com">www.repair.maytag.com</a></td>
</tr>
</table>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/safety-alerts/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Hello world!</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/uncategorized/hello-world/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/uncategorized/hello-world/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 30 Aug 2010 16:53:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rmsab.com/?p=1</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Welcome to WordPress. This is your first post. Edit or delete it, then start blogging!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Welcome to WordPress. This is your first post. Edit or delete it, then start blogging!</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/uncategorized/hello-world/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Carbon Monoxide FAQs</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/carbon-monoxide-faqs/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/carbon-monoxide-faqs/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 23:13:58 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://testing.odvod.ca/rms/?p=140</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[What is Carbon Monoxide (CO)? CO is a colorless, odourless and tasteless poison gas that can be fatal when inhaled It is sometimes called the &#8220;silent killer&#8221;. Carbon monoxide is the product of incomplete combustion. Carbon monoxide inhibits the blood&#8217;s &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/carbon-monoxide-faqs/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<ol>
<li>
<h4>What is Carbon Monoxide (CO)? </h4>
<ul>
<li>CO is a colorless, odourless and tasteless poison gas that can be fatal when inhaled</li>
<li>It is sometimes called the &#8220;silent killer&#8221;. </li>
<li>Carbon monoxide is the product of incomplete combustion. </li>
<li>Carbon monoxide inhibits the blood&#8217;s capacity to carry oxygen.</li>
<li>CO can be produced when burning any fossil fuel: gasoline, propane, natural gas, oil and wood. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<p><span id="more-140"></span></p>
<li>
<h4>Where does Carbon Monoxide (CO) come from? </h4>
<ul>
<li>Any fuel burning appliance that is malfunctioning or improperly installed. </li>
<li>Possible sources include furnaces, gas range/stove, gas clothes dryer, water heater, portable fuel burning space heaters, fireplaces and wood burning stoves. </li>
<li>Vehicles and other combustion engines running in an attached garage. </li>
<li>Blocked chimney or flues. </li>
<li>Cracked or loose furnace exchanger. </li>
<li>Back drafting and changes in air pressure.</li>
<li>Operating a grill in an enclosed space. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4>How can I protect myself from Carbon Monoxide (CO) poisoning? </h4>
<ul>
<li>The only way to detect if there is carbon monoxide in your home is with a carbon monoxide alarm. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4>What are the symptoms of Carbon Monoxide (CO) poisoning? </h4>
<ul>
<li>Initial symptoms are similar to the flu with no fever, and can include dizziness, severe headaches, nausea, sleepiness, fatigue/weakness and disorientation/confusion. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4>Does Carbon Monoxide (CO) affect certain individuals sooner than others? </h4>
<ul>
<li>Everyone is susceptible, but unborn babies, young children, pregnant women, senior citizens and people with heart or respiratory problems are especially vulnerable. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4>What are the effects of being exposed to Carbon Monoxide (CO)? </h4>
<ul>
<li>Common Mild Exposure &#8211; Slight headache, nausea, vomiting, fatigue, flu-like symptoms. </li>
<li>Common Medium Exposure &#8211; Throbbing headache, drowsiness, confusion, fast heart rate. </li>
<li>Common Extreme Exposure &#8211; Convulsions, unconsciousness, brain damage, heart and lung failure followed by death. </li>
</ul>
<p><b>If you experience even mild CO poisoning symptoms, immediately consult a physician! </b>
</li>
<li>
<h4>Are there any preventative steps I can take to prevent Carbon Monoxide (CO)?</h4>
<ul>
<li>Every year have the heating system, vents, chimney, and flue inspected by a qualified technician.
<li>Regularly examine vents and chimneys for improper connections, visible rust and stains. </li>
<li>Install and operate appliances according to the manufacturer&#8217;s instructions. </li>
<li>Only purchase appliances that have been approved by a nationally recognized testing laboratory. </li>
<li>Never use a gas range/stove to heat the home. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4>Do I need a Carbon Monoxide Alarm (CO)? Where should it be installed? </h4>
<ul>
<li>Every home with at least one fuel burning appliance/heater, attached garage or fireplace should have a CO alarm. If the home has only one CO alarm, it should be installed in the main bedroom, or in the hallway outside of the sleeping area. For maximum protection, an alarm should be installed on every level of the home. Place at least 15 feet away from fuel burning appliances. Make sure nothing is covering or obstructing the unit. Do not place in dead air spaces, or next to a window or door. Test the CO alarm once a month by pressing the test/reset button. Unplug the unit and vacuum with soft brush attachment, or wipe with a clean, dry cloth to remove accumulated dust monthly.
	</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4>Should my Carbon Monoxide (CO) alarm have a digital display? What does the Peak Level Memory function do? </h4>
<ul>
<li>A digital display allows you to see if there is a reading, and respond before it becomes a dangerous situation. Peak Level Memory stores the highest recorded reading prior to being reset. This feature enables you to know if there was a reading while you were away from home. </li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>
<h4>Who should I call if my Carbon Monoxide (CO) alarm goes off? </h4>
<ul>
<li>If anyone is experiencing symptoms you need to get into fresh air and call 911 from a neighbour’s home. If no one is experiencing symptoms, you should call the fire department or a qualified technician from a neighbour’s home, to have the problem inspected. If you are unable to leave the home to call for help, open the doors and windows, and turn off all possible sources while you are waiting for assistance to arrive. Under no circumstance should an alarm be ignored! If you have concerns or questions about carbon monoxide detectors, call us to see how we can help.</li>
</ul>
</ol>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/carbon-monoxide-faqs/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Home Component Life</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/home-component-list/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/home-component-list/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 22:30:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://testing.odvod.ca/rms/?p=127</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[A well-built home can last for hundreds of years, but many of its parts must be replaced or renovated regularly. Here&#8217;s a sampling of life expectancies for different products and materials used in the home, as listed in a report &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/home-component-list/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A well-built home can last for hundreds of years, but many of its parts must be replaced or renovated regularly. Here&#8217;s a sampling of life expectancies for different products and materials used in the home, as listed in a report titled &#8220;1997 Housing Facts, Figures and Trends&#8221; published by the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) based in Washington, D.C.</p>
<p><span id="more-127"></span><br />
</tr>
<table class="post">
<tr>
<td></td>
<td><b>LIFE SPAN</b></td>
<td><b></b></td>
<td></td>
<td><b>LIFE SPAN</b></td>
</tr>
<p><!--more--></p>
<tr>
<td><b>APPLIANCES</b></td>
<td><b> (in years)</b><b></b></td>
<td><b></b></td>
<td><b>DOORS CONTINUED</b></td>
<td><b> (in years)</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Compactor</td>
<td>10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Interior (solid core wood)</td>
<td>30-life</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Dishwasher</td>
<td>10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Exterior (protected overhang)</td>
<td>80-100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Garbage Disposer</td>
<td>10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Exterior (unprotected and exposed)</td>
<td>25-30</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Dryer</td>
<td>10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Folding</td>
<td>30-life</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Freezer (compact)</td>
<td>12</td>
<td></td>
<td>Garage door</td>
<td>20-50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Freezer (standard)</td>
<td>16</td>
<td></td>
<td>Garage door opener</td>
<td>10</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Microwave oven</td>
<td>11</td>
<td></td>
<td colspan="2"><b>FINISHES (Used for waterproofing)</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Range (freestanding and built-in, electric)</td>
<td>17</td>
<td></td>
<td>Paint, plaster and stucco</td>
<td>3-5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Range (freestanding and built in, gas)</td>
<td>19</td>
<td></td>
<td>Sealer, silicone, and waxes</td>
<td>1-5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Range (high oven, gas)</td>
<td>14</td>
<td></td>
<td colspan="2"><b>FLOORS</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Refrigerator (compact)</td>
<td>14</td>
<td></td>
<td>Oak orpine</td>
<td>Lifetime</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Refrigerator (standard)</td>
<td>17</td>
<td></td>
<td>Slateflagstone</td>
<td>Lifetime</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Washer (automatic and compact)</td>
<td>13</td>
<td></td>
<td>Vinyl sheet or tile</td>
<td>minimum 20-30</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Exhaust fan</td>
<td>20</td>
<td></td>
<td>Terrazzo</td>
<td>Lifetime</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>BATHROOMS</b></td>
<td></td>
<td>Carpeting</td>
<td>11</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Cast iron bathtub</td>
<td>50</td>
<td></td>
<td>Marble</td>
<td>Lifetime</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Fibre glass bathtub and shower</td>
<td>10-15</td>
<td></td>
<td colspan="2"><b>FOOTINGS AND FOUNDATIONS</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Shower door (average quality)</td>
<td>25</td>
<td></td>
<td>Poured footing and foundation</td>
<td>200</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Toilet</td>
<td>50</td>
<td></td>
<td>Concrete block</td>
<td>100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>CABINETS</b></td>
<td></td>
<td>Cement</td>
<td>50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Kitchen cabinets</td>
<td>15-20</td>
<td></td>
<td>Waterproofing (bituminous coating)</td>
<td>10</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Medicine cabinet/bath vanity </td>
<td>20</td>
<td></td>
<td>Termite proofing</td>
<td>5</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>COUNTERTOPS</b></td>
<td></td>
<td>Baseboard system</td>
<td>20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Laminate</td>
<td>10-15</td>
<td></td>
<td colspan="2"><b>HEATING, VENTILATION AND AIR CONDITIONING</b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Ceramic tile (high-grade installation)</td>
<td>Lifetime</td>
<td></td>
<td>Air conditioning unit (central unit)</td>
<td>15</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Wood/butcher block</td>
<td>20+</td>
<td></td>
<td>Air conditioning unit (window unit)</td>
<td>10</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Granite</td>
<td>20+</td>
<td></td>
<td>Humidifier</td>
<td>8</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>DOORS</b></td>
<td></td>
<td>Water heater (electric)</td>
<td>14</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Screen</td>
<td>25-50</td>
<td></td>
<td>Water heater (gas)</td>
<td>13</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Interior (not perfect hollow core)</td>
<td><30-life</td>
<td></td>
<td>Forced air furnace, heat pump</td>
<td>18</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>HEATING, VENTILATION AND AIR CONDITIONING</b></td>
<td></td>
<td><b>ROOFING</b></td>
<td><b></b></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Furnace, gas or oil fired</td>
<td>18</td>
<td></td>
<td>Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes</td>
<td>15-30</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>HOME SECURITY APPLIANCES</b></td>
<td></td>
<td>Tile</td>
<td>50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Intrusion system</td>
<td>14</td>
<td></td>
<td>Slate</td>
<td>50-100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Smoke detector</td>
<td>5 &#8211; 10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Sheet metal</td>
<td>20-50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Smoke/fire/intrusionsystem</td>
<td>10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Built-uproofing (asphalt)</td>
<td>25</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>LANDSCAPING</b></td>
<td></td>
<td>Built-uproofing (coat and tar)</td>
<td>30</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Wooden deck</td>
<td>15</td>
<td></td>
<td>Asphalt composition shingle</td>
<td>15-30</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Brick and concrete patio</td>
<td>24</td>
<td></td>
<td>Asphalt overlay</td>
<td>25-35</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Tennis court</td>
<td>10</td>
<td></td>
<td><b>SIDING</b></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Concrete walk</td>
<td>24</td>
<td></td>
<td>Gutters and downspouts</td>
<td>30</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Gravel walk</td>
<td>4</td>
<td></td>
<td>Siding (wood)</td>
<td>10-100</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Asphalt driveway</td>
<td>10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Siding (steel)</td>
<td>50-life</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Swimming pool</td>
<td>18</td>
<td></td>
<td>Siding (aluminum)</td>
<td>20-50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sprinkler system</td>
<td>12</td>
<td></td>
<td>Siding (vinyl)</td>
<td>50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Fence</td>
<td>12</td>
<td></td>
<td><b>WINDOWS</b></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>PAINTS AND STAINS</b></td>
<td></td>
<td>Window glazing</td>
<td>20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Exterior paint on wood, brick and aluminum</td>
<td>7-10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Wood casement</td>
<td>20-50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Interior wall paint</td>
<td>5-10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Aluminum casement</td>
<td>10-20</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Interior trim and door</td>
<td>5-10</td>
<td></td>
<td>Screen </td>
<td>25-50</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Interior wallpaper</td>
<td>7</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td colspan="2"><b>PLUMBING</b></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Waste pipe (concrete)</td>
<td>50-100</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Waste pipe (cast iron)</td>
<td>75-100</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sinks (enamel steel sink)</td>
<td>15-20</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sinks (enamel cast iron sink)</td>
<td>25-30</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>Sinks (porcelain sink)</td>
<td>25-30</td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
<td></td>
</tr>
</table>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/home-component-list/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Edmonton Sun Article</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/edmonton-sun-article/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/edmonton-sun-article/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 22:16:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://testing.odvod.ca/rms/?p=119</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[By LYNDA PELLETIER Homes Editor December 1, 2002 If there were such a thing as a home psychologist in Greater Edmonton, the line of bitter and stressed-out houses seeking therapy would stretch for miles. &#8220;I&#8217;m feeling smothered,&#8221; the two-storey &#8217;80s &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/edmonton-sun-article/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>By LYNDA PELLETIER</div>
<div>Homes Editor</div>
<div style="padding-bottom:10px;">December 1, 2002</div>
<p>If there were such a thing as a home psychologist in Greater Edmonton, the line of bitter and stressed-out houses seeking therapy would stretch for miles.</p>
<p>&#8220;I&#8217;m feeling smothered,&#8221; the two-storey &#8217;80s model would say. &#8220;Can&#8217;t they see all this dust and humidity is killing me?&#8221;</p>
<p>&#8220;If that so-called &#8216;handy-man&#8217; attempts one more repair, I&#8217;ll crumble to the ground,&#8221; moans a 1950s bi-level.<br />
<span id="more-119"></span><br />
Even the recently-built luxury town home would have its troubles. &#8220;I don&#8217;t understand,&#8221; it would sob. &#8220;Everything was so wonderful in the beginning, but I&#8217;ve realized that, despite all the money and gifts, he never gives me what I really want, which is time and attention.&#8221;</p>
<p>Homeowners, meet the new therapists for the housing industry.</p>
<p>Residential Maintenance Services Inc. (RMS) is what can happen when two longtime players from the local construction and renovation scene identify a significant service gap in their industry &#8211; and move way past the &#8220;just talking about it&#8221; phase.</p>
<p>With an accumulated knowledge that spanned decades, longtime friends Bob Schulz and Doug Remin drew on their experience and drummed up the concept for RMS nearly four years ago. Enter Jim Kupczak, who came onboard 1 1/2 years ago. The former corporate finance specialist with a major accounting firm applied his left-brained expertise to the venture to come up with a business and marketing plan. The result: a company that tries to prevent the likelihood of failure in the home&#8217;s inner workings and thus, the cost that would be incurred due to major repairs.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s hard to imagine, in this electronic age, how a venture between a couple of working stiffs could single-handedly redefine the housing industry by combining good old fashioned customer service with a much-needed market niche. But who better to recognize the inherent flaw in the home maintenance industry &#8211; that there wasn&#8217;t a home maintenance industry at all.</p>
<p>Schulz says it&#8217;s a fact of life rather than indifference that homebuilders can&#8217;t ensure every homeowner becomes intimately familiar with their home&#8217;s inner workings &#8211; and that&#8217;s if the owner cares to at all. The eventual outcome, Schulz says, has been a widespread, reactive attitude towards upkeep: the hot water tank or furnace isn&#8217;t thought about until the basement is flooded, or the blower motor on the furnace burns out at -30 C.</p>
<p>Considering the average house is a complex patchwork of systems that often interconnect and influence one another, it&#8217;s no surprise that even minor aspects can wreak havoc if neglected over time. Consider further that certain neglected elements can have deadly consequences (i.e. fires caused by degraded wiring, poorly-ventilated furnace vents) the dollar aspect becomes moot. Furthermore, maintenance issues are borderless in that they play an integral role in the well-being of every home regardless of age, style or size.</p>
<p>&#8220;The traditional model for maintaining your home is &#8216;wait until it&#8217;s broke, then frantically try to find someone to fix it,&#8217;&#8221; Schulz explains. &#8220;We&#8217;re 180 degrees from the traditional model.&#8221;</p>
<p>Their business mantra is a simple one: a proactive rather than reactive approach to home maintenance, with minimal inconvenience to the homeowner.</p>
<p>Whether you&#8217;re a time-challenged professional, a spouse who&#8217;s becoming increasingly worried that your so-called in-house &#8220;handyman&#8221; will eventually incur expensive, irreversible damage, or a homeowner without a cause (i.e. you simply don&#8217;t have a clue ) prepare to add RMS&#8217;s phone number to your speed dial.</p>
<p>RMS advertises its services through direct-mail promotion. If their pamphlet piques your interest, don&#8217;t expect a pushy sales pitch that forces you into an ironclad contract which negotiates long terms and your first-born if you ever want to back out.</p>
<p>&#8220;When you sign a contract, it&#8217;s to protect you, not us,&#8221; Kupczak says.</p>
<p>Every new member receives an initial assessment from an RMS certified home technician &#8211; a qualified professional under the terms set by RMS &#8211; who performs a top-to-bottom evaluation of the home&#8217;s systems. This duty entails notating over 400 pieces of information, so it&#8217;s no surprise that this step of the process may take an average of three hours to perform (depending on the size and style of the home).<br />
Old pros like service tech Ray Pittet are extremely efficient. He&#8217;s at the point where he can simply &#8220;eyeball&#8221; a problem as soon as they walk up the sidewalk or into a room. He&#8217;s also a perfectionist.</p>
<p>&#8220;We only deal with people who have the same philosophy,&#8221; Schulz says of the company&#8217;s gaggle of trade partners. A professional image is solidified by techs who show up in company uniforms and RMS-marked vehicles.</p>
<p>Within about a week, the owner will be presented with a copy of this printed report, and subsequent &#8220;action&#8221; items which classify necessary repairs on a scale of importance (from &#8220;immediate attention&#8221; to simply keeping an eye on the situation). From then on, the technician will perform scheduled &#8220;service calls&#8221; on a regular basis, to monitor, and deal with problems before they escalate.</p>
<p>RMS keeps a detailed record of each and every subsequent service call and work order performed on the home. Homeowners retain copies of these items and are given a binder in which to store them. This permanent record essentially &#8220;belongs&#8221; to the home &#8211; an attractive selling tool for prospective anyone eventually wanting to sell their home.</p>
<p>The make and model of major appliances are recorded and saved in your file; if a problem with any of these devices crops up, your repairperson will have a heads-up on the machine and parts he&#8217;s going to be dealing with without making a house call &#8211; a valuable time and money saver.</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t expect RMS to provide a dollar assessment of your home, however &#8211; or act as a referee between you and a builder if you&#8217;re in the midst of a disagreement over workmanship.</p>
<p>They don&#8217;t perform the services of an inspection service either, so don&#8217;t ask your RMS tech to evaluate a home you&#8217;re considering for purchase.</p>
<p>Although there is flexibility, RMS presents two programs to their clients: two visits with full service access at $750 per year; or four visits per year at $1,500.</p>
<p>&#8220;CMHC says people should budget between one and three per cent of the home&#8217;s value for maintenance, service and repairs,&#8221; Schulz says. Considering that dollar figure can read nearly $8,000 for the average home, the benefit of maintenance becomes palpable.</p>
<p>And forget about receiving multiple bills from multiple repair people; or having to make a zillion phone calls to different service providers when something needs fixing. Every aspect of your maintenance program &#8211; from invoicing to contacting the appropriate trades for your repair, to requiring emergency service for an exploded water heater &#8211; is funnelled through the RMS &#8220;mothership.&#8221; This information is compiled into a single, detailed invoice that&#8217;s sent to the owner on a predetermined fee schedule.</p>
<p>The unsavoury task of finding a reputable, experienced, reasonably-priced repairperson is removed altogether. RMS provides clients quotes for every job, and that list comprises previously hand-picked professionals. If, after all this, you&#8217;re dissatisfied with the program (or the work performed) RMS will make it right &#8211; or remove you from the contract with absolutely no penalties or obligations.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s clear that these local entrepreneurs have taken peace of mind and bottled it, and goodness knows we could use a little of that today.</p>
<p>For more information, call 780-444-1055, or <a href="../../contact">e-mail us</a>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/edmonton-sun-article/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Care Of Urethane Wood Floors</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/care-of-urethane-wood-floors/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/care-of-urethane-wood-floors/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:57:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://testing.odvod.ca/rms/?p=115</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[The key to lasting beauty of your wood flooring investment is proper maintenance for the life of your floor. A properly maintained floor should last at least ten years and even longer if surface recoating is applied on a regular &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/care-of-urethane-wood-floors/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The key to lasting beauty of your wood flooring investment is proper maintenance for the life of your floor.  A properly maintained floor should last at least ten years and even longer if surface recoating is applied on a regular basis.</p>
<p>The following are some excellent guidelines for maintaining today&#8217;s wood floors:</p>
<ul>
<li>All hardwood floors regardless of how the floor has been finished must be properly maintained to ensure the beauty and life of the floor. </li>
<li>Every floor must be dust mopped, vacuumed or swept with a soft bristle broom daily, or as often as necessary, to remove grit and dust from the surface. Walking on dusty or dirty floor is the fastest way to damage a finish. </li>
<li>Place floor mats (carpet runners) at all exterior entrances. This will capture much of the harmful dirt before it even reaches the hardwood floor. Shake out, wash or vacuum mats and area rugs frequently. </li>
<li>Floor protector pads of soft felt or similar material should be placed on the bottoms of the legs of the furniture. Floor protectors must be kept clean of grit and periodically replaced. </li>
<p><span id="more-115"></span></p>
<li>Keep high heels in good repairs. An unprotected tip will dent any hardwood floor. </li>
<li>Kitchen floors experience the most traffic in a home. To prevent premature wear of the floor, place an area rug in front of the sink and stove area. Shake out or vacuum frequently. </li>
<li>Finally, using a humidifier or dehumidifier in conjunction with a furnace or air conditioning system to maintain relative humidity in the home at 30-50% will maintain the moisture in the wood and minimize cracks between the boards.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Urethane Finish Routine Cleaning</h4>
<p>Use an alcohol based wood floor cleaner available at most hardware stores.  NEVER wax or use oil based cleaner on a urethane finish. Do not generally wet a wood floor with water. When using any wood floor cleaner which requires mixing with water, follow mixing directions precisely. A cloth wetted with water and squeezed dry may be used to wipe up foodstuffs and other spills, provided the area is buffed dry immediately. Heel or scuffmarks and stubborn stains may be removed by lightly rubbing with a cloth and a wood floor cleaner.</p>
<h4>Long-term Maintenance</h4>
<p>Urethane finishes eventually will show wear patterns from surface scratching. When high traffic areas begin to look dull it is time to recoat or restore the finish. Screening (light sanding) and recoating with same finish every 2-3 years will help maintain your wood floor for years to come. Make sure no oil soaps, and other &#8220;contaminates&#8221; have been used on the floor, intentionally or otherwise.</p>
<p>If you have concerns or questions about caring for your wood floors, call us to see how we can help.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/care-of-urethane-wood-floors/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Top Ten Trouble Zones</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/top-ten-trouble-zones/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/top-ten-trouble-zones/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2010 17:02:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://testing.odvod.ca/rms/?p=40</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Zone Location Symptom Risks Costs Recommended Action 1 Tub and Shower Failed caulking, grout, softflooring Rooted flooring, structuraldamage $5,000-up Inspect caulking, crawl area; re-caulk, grout, seal as needed 2 Roof Curled or missing shingles, roof debris, moss Roof leaks; water &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/top-ten-trouble-zones/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table width="100%" class="post">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>Zone</th>
<th>Location</th>
<th>Symptom</th>
<th>Risks</th>
<th>Costs</th>
<th>Recommended Action</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>1</td>
<td>Tub and Shower</td>
<td>Failed caulking, grout, softflooring</td>
<td>Rooted flooring, structuraldamage</td>
<td>$5,000-up</td>
<td>Inspect caulking, crawl area; re-caulk, grout, seal as needed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>2</td>
<td>Roof</td>
<td>Curled or missing shingles, roof debris, moss</td>
<td>Roof leaks; water damage to floors, walls</td>
<td>$15,000-up</td>
<td>Inspect and clean roof, flashings, skylights; remove debris quarterly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>3</td>
<td>Gutters and downspouts</td>
<td>Debris, leaky seams, inadequate drainage</td>
<td>Damage to foundation, siding, gutters and eaves</td>
<td>$1,000-$75,000</td>
<td>Inspect and clean gutters, downspouts, drainage quarterly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>4</td>
<td>Water heater</td>
<td>Rust, dirty water, leaks, lack of heat</td>
<td>Water heater bursts, house floods, floors destroyed</td>
<td>$5,000-$15,000</td>
<td>Inspect, clean, and flush water heater annually; replace anode rod</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>5</td>
<td>Doors and windows</td>
<td>Leaks, gaps or cracks in caulk, wood damage</td>
<td>Walls, windows, trim, siding need replacement</td>
<td>$5,000-$15,000</td>
<td>Inspect flashing, caulking, paint and weather stripping annually</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>6</td>
<td>Furnace</td>
<td>Soot at vents, doors, broken, flues and ducting; high utility bills</td>
<td>Carbon monoxide poisoning</td>
<td>$200-up</td>
<td>Test, inspect and service furnace and filters, test for toxic gas emissions annually</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>7</td>
<td>Deck</td>
<td>Splitting, rot, weathering, lifting nails, splinters, loose railing</td>
<td>Deck failure, premature replacement, and safety hazards</td>
<td>$6,000-up</td>
<td>Inspect, clean, seal wood annually, reset nails, replace boards</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>8</td>
<td>Garage door</td>
<td>Loose hardware, noise, faulty reverser, spring malfunction, jerky</td>
<td>Personal injury, damage to car, failure of door opener</td>
<td>$750-up</td>
<td>Inspect, test, lubricate, tighten and adjust hardware of door and reverser annually</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>9</td>
<td>Sinks</td>
<td>Leaks under sinks, clogs, rusted traps, faulty shut-off valves</td>
<td>Damage to cabinets, walls, floors, and rot</td>
<td>$600-up</td>
<td>Inspect, test and service plumbing annually.  Early detection is key.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td>10</td>
<td>Attic and crawl space</td>
<td>Insufficient ventilation, moisture, mildew, rodents, insects, foundation cracks</td>
<td>Hidden rot, foundation damage, and structural damage</td>
<td>$5,000-up</td>
<td>Inspect spaces<br />
and foundation, ensure adequate ventilation</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/top-ten-trouble-zones/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Proper Indoor Humidity</title>
		<link>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/proper-indoor-humidity/</link>
		<comments>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/proper-indoor-humidity/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Jul 2010 16:49:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jim</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[articles]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://testing.odvod.ca/rms/?p=35</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[During the heating season, the average home may have a relative humidity as low as 13%. Amazingly, this is about ½ the relative humidity in the Sahara Desert! What should indoor relative humidity be, then? That depends on outside temperatures, &#8230; <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/articles/proper-indoor-humidity/">Continue reading <span class="meta-nav">&#8594;</span></a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>During the heating season, the average home may have a relative humidity as low as 13%. Amazingly, this is about ½ the relative humidity in the Sahara Desert! What should indoor relative humidity be, then? That depends on outside temperatures, as indicated below:</p>
<table class="post">
<tbody>
<tr>
<th>When The Outdoor Temperature Is:</th>
<th>The Relative Humidity Should Be Maintained At:</th>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center">+40</td>
<td align="center">45%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center">+30</td>
<td align="center">40%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center">+20</td>
<td align="center">35%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center">+10</td>
<td align="center">30%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center">0</td>
<td align="center">25%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center">-10</td>
<td align="center">23%</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align="center">-20</td>
<td align="center">15%</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><span id="more-35"></span><br />
A humidifier needs a humidistat (counterpart of the thermostat) which can be adjusted as often as necessary to provide the desired level of humidity. The most recent advancement in humidification is a humidiistat that automatically delivers the optimum relative humidity without periodic homeowner adjustment. These humidistats adjust the humidity in the home up to 86,000 times per day.</p>
<p>The amount of humidity required in a home is dependent to a certain extent to the way in which the home was constructed. A well insulated house with vapor barriers in the walls, ceilings and slabs, and properly fitting storm doors and windows may need only three (3) gallons of additional moisture per day. A house of similar size but loosely constructed might require five (5) times as much moisture in the same period.</p>
<p>Properly humidified air can help repel problems aggravated by too dry air, such as asthma or allergies. Dry thirsty air evaporates moisture from your skin, a cooling process that makes you feel chilly.However, with humidified levels raised to recommended levels you can dial your thermostat down to 68&deg; and still feel comfortable.</p>
<p>Heated air dries out wood framing around doors and windows, too. Shrinkage of the wood occurs, leaving spaces that permit cold, outside air to infiltrate the home, lowering the inside temperature and requiring more heating. Proper humidity reduces annoying wintertime static electricity shocks.</p>
<p>The damaging effects of heated, parched air can cause separation of wood in floors, trim and furniture…excessive wear of fabrics and carpets…loss of piano tone quality…cracks in walls or ceilings, it can cause plants to dry out so they droop and turn brown.</p>
<p>Proper humidification provides the protection that is needed.</p>
<p>If you have concerns or questions about humidity issues, feel free to <a href="http://www.rmsab.com/contact">contact us</a>.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.rmsab.com/articles/proper-indoor-humidity/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>0</slash:comments>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>

